Salicylic acid (BHA) is the main active for congested pores. Its distinguishing feature is that it is oil-soluble and works inside the pore, not only on the surface. That is what sets it apart from AHA acids.
Salicylic acid is a BHA, an oil-soluble acid: it penetrates the pore and dissolves sebum and dead cells from within. It works excellently on blackheads and whiteheads. For a beginner — once or twice a week, not straight away with other actives, and always with sunscreen.
01What BHA is
BHA (beta hydroxy acid) means salicylic acid. Dermatologists have long used it for acne: it opens congested pores and exfoliates the skin, so it is especially effective on comedones — blackheads and whiteheads.
02How it works: inside the pore
The key property is oil solubility. The sebum in the pore is oily too, so BHA "mixes" with it and penetrates inside, dissolving the plug. AHA acids (glycolic, lactic) are water-soluble and work mainly on the surface of the skin — hence their different purpose.
BHA or AHA
BHA (salicylic)
- Where it works
- Inside the pore
- For what
- Blackheads, pores, oily skin
- Skin type
- Oily, combination, acne-prone
AHA (glycolic, lactic)
- Where it works
- On the surface
- For what
- Dullness, texture, tone
- Skin type
- Normal, dry, with pigmentation
03How a beginner should introduce it
- Begin once or twice a week, in the evening.
- Do a patch test and do not introduce BHA at the same time as other new actives.
- Build up the frequency gradually, guided by tolerability.
- BHA can be drying — be sure to moisturise the skin.
- By day — sunscreen: acids increase sensitivity to the sun.
04Common mistakes
- Every day from day one. A path to irritation; build up gradually.
- BHA + retinol + AHA all at once. Too harsh for the skin.
- Skipping hydration and sunscreen. Dryness and photosensitivity.
- Expecting an effect within a couple of days. The skin needs weeks.
05Common questions
BHA or AHA — which to choose?
For oily skin, congested pores and blackheads — BHA (it works within the pore). For dullness, uneven texture and pigmentation — more likely AHA.
Can I use BHA on dry skin?
You can, but carefully and less often, always with hydration. BHA can be uncomfortable on dry and sensitive skin — start at the lowest frequency.
06What to try
A 1–2% BHA toner
A gentle introduction, on a cotton pad or with the palms.
Смотреть на YesStyle SerumA BHA serum
On specific spots or areas with pores.
Смотреть на YesStyle CleanseA gel with salicylic acid
A rinse-off format, gentler to introduce.
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Drawing on dermatological sources:
This material is educational and does not replace a consultation with a dermatologist.