The main mistake in fighting circles is treating them "blindly". Yet dark circles come in at least three different types, and what brightens pigment is useless against blueness from vessels. Let us work out how to identify your type with a simple test and what suits it.
Circles are divided into pigmented (brown, from an excess of melanin), vascular (blue-purple, from vessels showing through) and structural (a shadow from the contour: the tear trough, thin skin). A mixed type is common. Pigment is brightened by vitamin C, niacinamide, arbutin and, essentially, sunscreen. Vascular ones are helped by sleep, cold, caffeine. Structural shadows are barely removed by care — that is the work of fillers/procedures.
01Three types of circles
In dermatology, periorbital darkness is classified by its nature. The pigmented type — a brownish shade from an excess of melanin (genetics, post-acne-like inflammation, rubbing, sun). The vascular type — blueness or purpleness: vessels show through the thin skin, worsened by tiredness and a blocked nose. The structural type — essentially a shadow: the contour (the tear trough), loss of volume and thin skin create darkening even without pigment. Many people have several at once.
02How to determine your type
A simple home guide. Stretch the skin under the eye outward with your fingers: if the brown colour remains — it is pigment; if the darkness fades or "spreads out" — vessels are contributing. Tilt your face towards the mirror under different light: if the shadow intensifies with light from above and disappears with light from below — it is structure (the contour). The test is rough, but it helps choose a direction. A precise assessment is given by a doctor with a Wood's lamp.
03What works for each type
Pigmented: brightening actives — vitamin C, niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid; gentle acids; and above all — sunscreen, without which any brightening is undone. Vascular: enough sleep, cold compresses in the morning, caffeine gels (constrict vessels temporarily), treatment of allergy/congestion. Structural: care supports with hydration and firmness, but noticeable results come from procedures (fillers in the tear trough, lasers) — that is for a doctor.
- Treating everything with brighteners. Against vascular blueness, whitening actives are useless.
- Expecting a quick result. Pigment brightens over weeks to months, and only with sunscreen.
- Rubbing the eyes and removing make-up with force. Rubbing worsens pigmented circles.
- Ignoring sleep and allergy. For the vascular type these matter more than any cream.
- Applying lemon/baking soda "to whiten". Irritation has the opposite effect — inflammation and pigment.
04What to try for your type
Pigmented type (brown)
Vascular type (blueness)
Structural type (shadow from the contour)
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05Common questions
Why do circles not go away even though I get enough sleep?
Most likely you have a pigmented or structural contribution, not just tiredness. Sleep mainly helps the vascular type; pigment and contour do not depend on sleep.
Do under-eye patches help?
Patches give temporary hydration and freshness and smooth a little before an occasion, but they do not durably change the type of circle.
Can I use retinol against circles?
Retinoids can thicken the skin and help with tone over time, but around the eyes they are introduced carefully and at a low concentration because of the risk of irritation.
Drawing on peer-reviewed sources:
- Huang Y. et al. Clinical analysis and classification of dark eye circles — division into pigmented/vascular/structural/mixed types. PubMed.
- Sarkar R. et al. Periorbital Hyperpigmentation: A Comprehensive Review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 2016.
- Brady R.T., Shah-Desai S. Clinical Efficacy of a Topical Formulation on Periorbital Dark Circles (niacinamide/arbutin/tranexamic). PMC, 2025.
- Dark Circles Under the Eyes: Causes & Treatment. Cleveland Clinic.
This material is educational and does not replace a consultation with a dermatologist. Sudden darkening of only one eye or other alarming changes are a reason to see a doctor.