If anti-ageing has a "gold standard", it is retinoids. They have the strongest evidence base for reversing photodamage. But they are also the ones most often introduced incorrectly — too fast and too harshly. Let us go through it plainly.
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A; they stimulate collagen and skin renewal. Their strength rises along the chain retinol → retinal → tretinoin (prescription): the fewer conversion steps in the skin, the more powerful and the harsher. They must be introduced gradually (retinisation), and the effect takes months. Sunscreen is essential, and a pause during pregnancy.
01What retinoids are and their hierarchy
All retinoids are converted in the skin into their active form — retinoic acid. The fewer conversions needed, the stronger the product (and the harsher): retinol takes two steps, retinal one, and tretinoin (retinoic acid) is already active. So tretinoin is the most powerful, but prescription-only; retinol is mild and over-the-counter.
Over-the-counter or prescription
Retinol / retinal (OTC)
- Strength
- Milder, slower
- For whom
- Starting out, sensitive skin
- Tolerability
- Better, less irritation
Tretinoin (prescription)
- Strength
- The most powerful, active at once
- For whom
- As prescribed by a doctor
- Tolerability
- More often irritating, needs caution
02Retinisation: introduce gradually
In the first weeks the skin adjusts to a retinoid — dryness, flaking and mild irritation are possible (retinisation). This is not a reason to quit, but nor is it a reason to put up with stinging. "Faster" does not mean "better": an aggressive start hits the barrier and sets back your progress.
- Begin once or twice a week, in the evening, on dry skin.
- Apply a little — a pea-sized amount for the whole face.
- The sandwich method: cream → retinoid → cream, for gentleness.
- Build up the frequency gradually, as tolerated.
- Strong stinging and redness — take a break, do not tough it out.
03The essential rules
- Sunscreen by day — retinoids increase sensitivity to the sun, and without protection they lose their point.
- Evening only — many retinoids break down in light.
- A pause during pregnancy and breastfeeding — retinoids are not used at this time; check with a doctor.
- Do not combine with acids straight away. Too harsh for the skin.
- The effect is slow. Noticeable changes after three to six months, and they hold only with continued use.
04Common questions
Where should a beginner start?
With a low percentage of retinol or retinal once or twice a week in the evening, alongside hydration and essential sunscreen by day. Build up the frequency as tolerated.
Can I use retinol during pregnancy?
No, retinoids are not used during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Gentle alternatives for this period are peptides and azelaic acid, but check any actives with a doctor.
05What to try
A low-percentage retinol
A gentle introduction, once or twice a week.
Смотреть на YesStyle StrongerRetinal (retinaldehyde)
More active than retinol, one step closer.
Смотреть на YesStyle SupportA barrier cream with ceramides
Reduces irritation during retinisation.
Смотреть на YesStyleThese are affiliate links (YesStyle). Buying through them does not change the price for you, but it supports the project. The selection is based on the type of product and the formula, not on the size of the commission.
The article's key points draw on peer-reviewed publications:
- Human Skin Aging and Anti-Aging Properties of Retinol — the conversion retinol → retinal → retinoic acid, collagen. PMC, 2023.
- Vitamin C, Topical Retinoids, and Sunscreen — mechanism, 3–6 months, not during pregnancy, effect stops on discontinuation. ACOFP, 2024.
- A practical approach to retinoids in aging skin — tretinoin FDA-approved, tolerability. JAAD.
This material is educational and does not replace a consultation with a dermatologist. Discuss prescription retinoids and use during pregnancy with a doctor.