There are thousands of anti-ageing creams, but few working principles. The main one is inconvenient: most visible skin ageing is caused by the sun, not by time. Which means sunscreen matters more than any jar of "lifting" cream. Let us work out what really makes sense.
Skin ageing comes in two kinds: intrinsic (chronological) and photoageing from UV — and it is the photo kind that produces most visible change. Three things truly work: sunscreen (prevention), retinoids (treatment of photodamage), antioxidants (protection). The rest is support and comfort.
01Two kinds of ageing: time and the sun
Chronological ageing is genetics and time: the skin becomes thinner, drier, and loses collagen. Photoageing is accumulated UV damage, and it is what produces deep wrinkles, pigmentation, coarse texture and slackness. The good news: photoageing is largely preventable.
Chronological or photoageing
Chronological
- Cause
- Age, genes
- Signs
- Thinness, dryness, fine lines
- Pigment
- Few unevennesses
- Manageable
- Partly
Photoageing
- Cause
- The sun (UV)
- Signs
- Deep wrinkles, coarse texture, slackness
- Pigment
- Spots, uneven tone
- Manageable
- Largely preventable
A simple guideCompare the skin of your face and hands with the skin on the inner forearm or the buttock — where the sun barely reaches. The difference is the contribution of photoageing.
02The three that truly work
- Sunscreen — the most proven anti-ageing step: it prevents photoageing: why sunscreen is needed.
- Retinoids — the best evidence base for reversing photodamage (wrinkles, tone, texture): retinoids.
- Antioxidants — neutralise the free radicals from UV and strengthen sunscreen: antioxidants.
03The base, step by step
Start simple — sunscreen and hydration — and add actives one at a time. Antioxidants go in the morning (prevention), the retinoid in the evening (treatment).
- Gentle cleansing. Without over-drying.
- An antioxidant. Vitamin C — strengthens photoprotection.
- Hydration. A cream for your skin type.
- Sunscreen SPF 30+. The main anti-ageing step.
- Cleanse. Remove sunscreen and the day.
- A retinoid. As tolerated, not every day to start.
- Hydration. Support the barrier.
Do not introduce a retinoid and acids at the same time. The effect of anti-ageing actives shows over months, not days.
04Common mistakes
- Chasing "lifting creams" while skipping sunscreen. Without sun protection it is money down the drain.
- Introducing retinol aggressively. Irritation and a damaged barrier set the result back.
- Expecting an effect in a week. Anti-ageing actives work over months.
- Mixing everything at once. Retinol + acids + vitamin C together is too much.
- Starting "rejuvenation" only at 50. Prevention from a young age matters more.
05Common questions
Which single step gives the most?
Daily sunscreen. It is the most proven anti-ageing measure: it prevents photoageing, which is responsible for most of the skin's visible change.
Do expensive creams work better?
Price does not equal effectiveness. What decides is the ingredients and consistency: a basic sunscreen, a retinoid and an antioxidant from the pharmacy often work no worse than luxury jars.
06What to try
Sunscreen SPF 50
The main anti-ageing step.
Смотреть на YesStyle AntioxidantA serum with vitamin C
In the morning, strengthens photoprotection.
Смотреть на YesStyle TreatmentRetinol (a low percentage to start)
In the evening, as tolerated.
Смотреть на YesStyle SupportA cream with peptides
A gentle alternative/addition.
Смотреть на YesStyleThese are affiliate links (YesStyle). Buying through them does not change the price for you, but it supports the project. The selection is based on the type of product and the formula, not on the size of the commission.
Drawing on dermatological and peer-reviewed sources:
- Human Skin Aging and the Anti-Aging Properties of Retinol — photoageing, collagen, retinol. PMC, 2023.
- Vitamin C, Topical Retinoids, and Sunscreen in Clinical Practice — sunscreen as the base, retinoids 3–6 months. ACOFP, 2024.
- A practical approach to the use of retinoids in aging skin — tretinoin FDA-approved for photoageing. JAAD.
This material is educational and does not replace a consultation with a dermatologist.